Tuulia is safe because it is well preserved

As a Tuulia formulate creator, I face the challenge of creating cosmetics that are natural, effective and safe every day. Lack of proper preservation is a serious risk – cosmetics with water are susceptible to the development of bacteria, fungi and mould, which lead to putrefactive processes. These changes are not immediately visible to the naked eye: the cream may look and smell normal, but inside it processes are already taking place that can make it ineffective or even dangerous, causing irritation or skin infections. After numerous tests and analyses, I chose the DHA + BA preservative. Why? Let me tell you how science supports our love of nature, what DHA + BA is, what other options I considered and why DHA + BA won my trust.

The Role of Science in Cosmetic Preservation and Scientific Sources

I am a lover of nature, full of admiration for its complexity and beauty. At the same time, I am fascinated by scientific discoveries that allow us to better understand the microworld and use the benefits of nature more effectively. For me, one does not exclude the other - science and nature complement each other. Traditional preservation methods, such as using vinegar, do not work in cosmetics, where I need precision without affecting the scent or consistency. Studies, such as the work of Dr. Dorota Zielińska from SGGW, show that natural compounds can effectively replace synthetic preservatives. Challenge tests confirm that preservatives such as DHA + BA protect the product throughout its shelf life, even in difficult conditions. You can find more on this topic in the article from the Journal of Cosmetic Science : https://journal.scconline.org/pdf/cc2006/cc057i05/p00425-p00436.pdf . Foreign studies, e.g. publication in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science ( https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12676 ), confirm the effectiveness of DHA+BA in natural cosmetics.

What is DHA+BA and why is it of natural origin?

I still haven’t learned how to pronounce the full name – I still use the abbreviation! DHA+BA is a mixture of dehydroacetic acid (DHA) and benzyl alcohol (BA). DHA occurs naturally in plants, such as rowan, and is produced biotechnologically, while BA can be found in essential oils, such as jasmine. Both ingredients are approved by ECOCERT, which confirms their compliance with natural cosmetics standards. DHA+BA works by destroying the cell membranes of microorganisms and blocking their enzymes, preventing the growth of bacteria, fungi and molds, such as Staphylococcus aureus or Pseudomonas aeruginosa . As a recipe author, I appreciate the fact that DHA+BA, despite partial synthesis, maintains a structure identical to its natural counterparts, which is in line with our philosophy of naturalness.

Why did I choose DHA+BA?

After looking at many options, DHA+BA was the best choice. I considered various natural preservatives, including those used by competitors, but each had limitations:

• Glycerin : has a moisturizing and slightly preserving effect, reducing water activity. However, in acceptable concentrations, its effectiveness is insufficient, and increasing the concentration causes glycerin to have a drying effect on the skin, which is undesirable in our formulas.
• Ethyl alcohol : fights microorganisms, but in high concentrations it dries the skin and changes the consistency of the product.
• Radish Root Extract: is a natural preservative obtained from radish fermentation. Although effective against bacteria, it has limited antifungal activity, which requires combining with other substances.
• Essential oils : Thyme and rosemary have antimicrobial properties, but their odor and allergenic potential limit their use.
• Citric and ascorbic acid : They regulate pH and have an antioxidant effect, but do not provide complete microbiological protection.
• FEOG (ferulic acid and ethylhexylglycerin) :  while ferulic acid is a natural antioxidant from plants, is safe and supports skin protection, ethylhexylglycerin, although it can be derived from vegetable glycerin, is often synthesized, which raises my doubts in the context of our philosophy of maximum naturalness, and as a stand-alone preservative it requires higher concentrations, which increases the risk of irritation in people with sensitive skin.

DHA+BA stands out for several reasons:

• Effectiveness : Fights bacteria, fungi and molds in a wide range of conditions, outperforming e.g. radish extract, which is less effective against fungi.
• Neutrality : Does not affect the scent, consistency or color of the cosmetic.
• Safety : In acceptable concentrations, it does not irritate or cause allergies, which is confirmed by research.
• Naturalness : Approved by ECOCERT, perfectly in line with our values.

Dilemma: durability, safety, naturalness

Creating natural cosmetics is a balancing act between durability, safety and naturalness. Cosmetics with water are susceptible to microorganisms, and the lack of an effective preservative can lead to product spoilage or skin problems. Parabens, although effective, are absolutely unacceptable to me at Tuulia – not only because of the concerns of clients, but also because they can accumulate on the skin and potentially affect the hormonal balance, which raises my ethical and scientific concerns. So I looked for alternatives that would meet our standards. DHA + BA is the answer to this dilemma – it allows me to provide cosmetics that are safe, durable and fully natural.

In Tuulia I combine love for nature with scientific precision. DHA+BA is my way for cosmetics that you can use with confidence.

Justyna Fudala