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Bakuchiol – plant-based retinol without compromise
Ingredient Knowledge · Tuulia Cosmetics
Bakuchiol, plant-based retinol
Bakuchiol, plant-based retinol
without irritation
Properties and use in natural cosmetics
If you've ever tried retinol and gave it up after a week because your skin turned red, flaked, or stung every time you touched it — this text is for you. It's also for you if retinol simply doesn't suit you because you're pregnant, breastfeeding, or just have sensitive skin and don't feel like experimenting. Bakuchiol is not marketing. It's an ingredient backed by science.
BasicsBakuchiol - a thousand years of tradition, a decade of research. What is it and how does it work?
Bakuchiol comes from the seeds and leaves of a plant called Psoralea corylifolia — known for centuries in India and East Asia as babchi. In Chinese and Indian medicine, it was used to treat skin ailments, inflammations, and pigmentation problems. Long before anyone coined the word "anti-aging."
Western science only seriously focused on this raw material in the last decade. In 2014, researchers discovered something that truly changed the way we think about natural skincare: bakuchiol activates the same genetic pathways as retinol — stimulating collagen production, accelerating cell renewal, improving skin structure — but with a completely different chemical structure. And without the irritating properties that are the bane of classic retinoids. It is a plant-based equivalent of retinol.
Chaudhuri and Bojanowski showed that bakuchiol regulates gene expression in a similar way to retinol — activating the same pathways responsible for collagen production and cell renewal — despite a completely different chemical structure. On this basis, they described it as a functional analog of retinol.
— Chaudhuri & Bojanowski, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2014
Incidentally — this is the kind of discovery that happens once every dozen years in cosmetology. Something that shows properties like a gold standard, but is gentle, plant-based, and vegan? For us at Tuulia, it was the answer to a question we had been searching for for a long time.
Clinical Study
Bakuchiol vs. retinol - a study that proved bakuchiol cosmetics are an alternative to retinol
A breakthrough study was published in 2019 in the British Journal of Dermatology. 44 women, randomly assigned to groups, used either a bakuchiol cream or a retinol cream for 12 weeks. The result? Bakuchiol, like retinol, reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. The difference with retinol was in tolerance — retinol users significantly more often reported skin peeling and stinging. The second group fared noticeably better in this regard.
≈20%
wrinkle reduction after 12 weeks
=
same efficacy as retinol — statistically confirmed
↓
significantly fewer irritations than in the retinol group — better tolerance confirmed in the study
You have an ingredient that does exactly what retinol does — and, unlike retinol, causes fewer skin problems. This is truly a big "wow" in the world of skincare.
Comparison
Properties of bakuchiol - differences between bakuchiol and retinol
Retinol's action has been the gold standard in anti-aging for years. And deservedly so — it truly delivers results. The problem is that it has its demands: it needs to be introduced gradually, cannot be used in the morning, and the skin can play tricks for the first few weeks. For many women, this is an insurmountable barrier.
Bakuchiol is an ingredient that doesn't have these drawbacks. You can use it morning and evening — available studies have not reported photosensitivity in the bakuchiol group, which distinguishes it from classic retinoids. As a natural antioxidant, it protects the skin from free radicals. On sensitive skin, prone to redness, and even atopic skin — it behaves like a friend, not a challenge, although as with any active ingredient, it's worth doing a skin test.
| Feature | Bakuchiol | Retinol |
|---|---|---|
| Origin | Plant-based (babchi seeds) | Synthetic vitamin A derivative |
| Anti-aging efficacy | Confirmed | Confirmed |
| Irritation | Usually less frequent and milder than with retinol | Often: stinging, peeling |
| Application time | Morning and evening | Only in the evening |
| Photosensitivity | Not reported in studies | Customarily used in the evening; requires more caution and SPF |
| Sensitive / atopic skin | Usually well tolerated — skin patch test recommended | Requires great caution |
| Pregnancy and breastfeeding | Considered a safer option* | Contraindicated |
| Vegan | Yes — 100% | Depends on the formula |
Bakuchiol and retinol in pregnancy — what is really known?
Retinol and all retinoids are absolutely not recommended during pregnancy. This is not an excessive precaution — it's a well-documented fact: they activate receptors that can interfere with proper fetal development. Bakuchiol is an ingredient that works differently at the molecular level. The key difference is that it does not activate RAR-β and RAR-γ receptors — precisely those involved in embryogenesis. Simply put: even if it "mimics" retinoids in terms of visible skin effects, it does not mimic them in the mechanism that makes retinoids dangerous during pregnancy.
What do studies say about using bakuchiol during pregnancy?
A review published in the Journal of Integrative Dermatology indicates that bakuchiol — unlike retinoids — does not activate RAR-β and RAR-γ receptors involved in embryogenesis. On this basis, researchers consider it a potentially safer alternative in the context of pregnancy. At the same time, the same review explicitly states: insufficient clinical trials have been conducted on pregnant or breastfeeding women to make categorical safety declarations ruling out side effects. What's more — hormonal changes during pregnancy often exacerbate hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone. Babchi may be worth considering here, but always after consulting a doctor.
An honest note from us
Action
There are no large clinical studies conducted on pregnant women — for ethical reasons, they are difficult to conduct. Available data suggest a potentially lower risk than with retinoids, but do not allow for a definitive statement that bakuchiol is "safe in pregnancy." Therefore, always talk to your gynecologist or dermatologist before introducing a new active ingredient.
The action of bakuchiol - four properties of plant-based retinol
Wondering how bakuchiol works in cosmetics? Here's what results it provides with regular skin care and when it's worth reaching for bakuchiol:
1
Stimulates collagen production
Stimulates fibroblasts — cells responsible for skin structure — to produce collagen and elastin. This translates into a visible improvement in skin density and elasticity and a reduction in wrinkles.
2
It is a powerful antioxidant
And this is something retinol cannot do — bakuchiol alone protects the skin from free radicals and photoaging. In combination with other antioxidants (like vitamin C), it is worth using it for anti-aging.
3
Evens out skin tone
Affects melanin — helps reduce discoloration, sun spots, and uneven skin tone. You will notice an improvement in skin tone after several weeks of regular use.
4
Supports epidermal regeneration
In vitro studies and formulation data indicate a number of properties supporting epidermal regeneration. Therefore, it is often chosen for skin care after treatments, for reactive or simply tired skin — although clinical comparisons with retinol in this area still require confirmation in larger studies.
In short: bakuchiol does what retinol needs several months of adaptation to do — and it does it without drama. For us, it was like, "Exactly, that's the point."
Divine Touch
Why we added bakuchiol to Divine Touch — and why at this concentration
At Tuulia, we have always adhered to one principle: if an ingredient is included in our formulas, it's not for decoration on the INCI list. Bakuchiol in Divine Touch — Eternal Youth Serum is in a concentration that truly delivers results and has anti-aging properties. And it's not alone. The serum is accompanied by stabilized vitamin C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate), prickly pear oil — one of the most expensive and rarest oils in the world — argan oil, sea buckthorn, and squalane. Together, they form a formula in which each ingredient enhances the action of the others. And the scent? Damask rose, sandalwood, jasmine, bergamot. Applying this serum is simply a moment to look forward to.
Divine Touch — Eternal Youth Serum
Bakuchiol + vitamin C + prickly pear oil + sea buckthorn + squalane. Bestseller in gift sets.
Go to product →We also chose bakuchiol because it is 100% vegan and plant-based — and for us, that's not a minor detail. It's a foundation. We want every ingredient in our cosmetics to matter. And for you to understand what benefits your skin — and why.
Frequently Asked QuestionsSkin care with bakuchiol cosmetics - frequently asked questions
Can bakuchiol be used in the morning?
Yes — and this is one of its main advantages over retinol. In available studies, it was not associated with photosensitization, so you can use bakuchiol both in the morning and in the evening. Just remember about SPF during the day — this is a rule of good skin care regardless of the active ingredients used.
I have sensitive / atopic skin. Can I use plant-based retinol?
Bakuchiol is usually much better tolerated than retinoids and is increasingly recommended by dermatologists as an alternative for sensitive skin. A small study on skin with eczema, rosacea, and cosmetic hypersensitivity showed good overall tolerance of a babchi product, although some individuals with eczema reported minimal stinging. As with any active ingredient — do a patch test on a small area of skin and give yourself a few days to observe.
How quickly does bakuchiol work? When will I see results?
In a clinical study, the first measurable effects appeared after 4 weeks, with full results after 12. Regular use seems crucial for maintaining the effect, similar to retinol. How long the effects of use last after discontinuation still requires confirmation in further studies.
Can bakuchiol be combined with acids and vitamin C?
Yes — and that's another good news. Bakuchiol works well with vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and peptides. Data on antioxidant synergy are particularly well documented for combinations with other antioxidants, especially vitamin C. That is why we combined it with vitamin C in Divine Touch.
Is bakuchiol the same as retinol?
No. Bakuchiol and retinol are completely different molecules — only their effects on the skin are similar. Bakuchiol is not a vitamin A derivative, it acts differently molecularly, and does not require nighttime adaptation. In available studies, it was not associated with photosensitization or typical irritating reactions. For pregnant or breastfeeding women, it is considered a potentially safer option — although consultation with a doctor is always recommended here. For many women, it is simply a better tolerated path to similar anti-aging effects.
Summary — bakuchiol vs. retinol
Bakuchiol shows effects similar to retinol — it reduces wrinkles, evens out skin tone, and stimulates collagen. Science confirms this, although the evidence base is still smaller than for retinoids. The distinct advantage of babchi lies in better tolerance: in available studies, it caused significantly less irritation and no photosensitization was reported. It is 100% plant-based and vegan.
Better tolerance
Significantly less irritation than retinol — no photosensitization in studies
100% plant-based and vegan
Derived from babchi seeds — no vitamin A derivatives
Safer option*
Potentially safer during pregnancy — after consulting a doctor
For sensitive, mature, atopic skin — and for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding (after consulting a doctor) — it is not a substitute out of necessity. It is a promising, usually better tolerated choice. And that's why it's at the heart of our Divine Touch.
Sources
- Dhaliwal et al., British Journal of Dermatology, 2019 — a study comparing the effects of bakuchiol and retinol in the care of skin with signs of photoaging.
- Chaudhuri and Bojanowski, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2014 — publication on bakuchiol as an ingredient with retinol-like effects.
- Nizam et al., F1000Research, 2023 — review of the properties and potential applications of bakuchiol.
- Park, Journal of Integrative Dermatology, 2022 — review of studies on the topical use of bakuchiol in skin care with signs of aging.